Old fences tell stories. Usually they involve a stubborn post set in concrete in 1987, three generations of ivy, a neighbor’s dog named Rocket, and a gate that never hung straight. When it is time to reclaim your yard, upgrade your curb appeal, or clear the line for a new boundary, fence demolition and hauling looks simple from the sidewalk. Up close, it is nails, knots, rusted wire, hidden irrigation lines, and a surprising amount of weight. The difference between a one-day reset and a week of surprises comes down to planning, the right tools, and a team that understands how fences actually come apart.
This is a working guide from the field. If you want the job done cleanly, safely, and with a schedule that doesn’t drift, read on. I will cover what professionals look for during assessment, how we stage equipment, options for reuse and recycling, tricks for extracting posts, and when to bring in a demolition company. Along the way, I will point out where junk removal and junk hauling services slot in, and how the same crews that handle garage cleanout and estate cleanouts often run the best fence removals because they know how to move material efficiently.
Why fences fail, and why that matters for removal
Most removals start with rot at grade, broken rails, bowed sections from wind, or heaved concrete. Wood fences tend to show their age at the posts and pickets where water sits. Chain link usually fails at the corner bracing, tension bands, and bottom wire. Vinyl panels crack from UV exposure or shatter in cold snaps. The failure mode matters because it changes how you dismantle. Rotten posts often shear off, so you have to dig out or core-drill the concrete. Chain link can snarl and turn into a 50-foot razor if you release tension without a plan. Vinyl usually disassembles cleanly if you can lift out panels before cutting posts.
If you are replacing the fence in the same line, your goal is clean extraction and grading that leaves the layout true. If you are removing permanently, you want to preserve soil stability and avoid a trench of old concrete that turns up five years later when you plant a tree. In either case, the labor and disposal volume often exceed homeowners’ expectations. A 100-foot run of six-foot cedar can fill 15 to 25 cubic yards depending on post extraction. Add posts with concrete, and you can push 3,000 to 6,000 pounds quickly. That is where residential junk removal crews earn their fee: fewer trips, safer loading, and the ability to separate salvageable wood from landfill waste.
The site walk that saves your Saturday
The best fence demolition starts before the first screw backs out. On a typical site walk, I carry a probe, shovel, cordless impact driver, metal cutting blades, bolt cutters, a spool of tie wire, and a can of fluorescent paint. I am looking for eight things: property lines and setbacks, utilities, irrigation and lighting, tree roots, slope and drainage paths, neighbor structures that tie into the fence, gate hardware and anchors, and the concrete profile on the posts.
Property lines sound obvious until you realize the fence is off by six inches in places and the neighbor’s shed leans on it. If you plan to build new, verify with your plot plan or survey, then mark string lines. For utilities, 811 is free, but it will not catch homeowner-installed low-voltage runs, drip lines, or old dog fence wire. I mark every sprinkler head, valve box, and lighting transformer I see, then dig shallow test holes at suspect post bases. You would be surprised how many PVC lines were sleeved right under the fence line.
Slope and drainage change how you stage debris. On a downhill yard, cut panels in manageable sections, then carry uphill to the staging area. Otherwise gravity will take your panels where they want to go. Corner posts often carry extra concrete and bracing. I plan extra time there. If the fence shares a vine or a trellis with a neighbor, I knock on their door with a friendly hello and a plan to secure their plants. That five-minute talk saves ill will and maybe a climbing rose.
Tools and setup, without the trailer full of everything
You do not need a backhoe to remove most fences. You need a small set of dependable tools and a staging plan that keeps material flowing. My core kit: impact driver, reciprocating saw with wood and metal blades, circular saw, pry bars (flat bar and 60-inch wrecking bar), sledge, post puller or farm jack, bolt cutters, angle grinder for stubborn fasteners, shovel, digging bar, and a wheelbarrow that will not fold under a load of concrete. For chain link, add a come-along or ratchet strap for controlled tension release. For vinyl, keep a rubber mallet and a set of replacement screws if you plan to resell or reuse panels.
Set up a staging area as close to your haul truck or dumpster as possible, ideally on pavement or plywood to avoid sprinklers and turf damage. I like to pre-stack: one pile for clean wood, one for pressure-treated material, one for metal, one for mixed waste, and a separate spot for concrete. If you have a relationship with a transfer station or recycling facility, this sorting can save you 10 to 30 percent on disposal, and it lets your junk cleanouts crew load with fewer re-handles.
A word on safety. Eye protection is not optional. Neither are gloves with real cut resistance. Rusted chain link and old nails do not care how fast you want the job done. If you are cutting close to grade, knee pads and chaps keep your day pleasant. If you are within earshot of neighbors, plan your noisiest cuts for midday.
The rhythm of removal
A fence comes apart in a rhythm. Cut rails or detach panels, clear a section, extract posts, stage neatly, sweep, and move on. Humans do better with repeated patterns, and your team will move faster and safer when everyone knows the sequence. For wood, I start at a gate and work toward corners, because gates carry extra hardware and often anchor to concrete pads or piers. For chain link, I start by relieving tension, pulling tie wires from the top rail, rolling the fabric into tight coils, then cutting posts. Vinyl often wants a panel-first approach. Pop the caps, free the panels, then tackle the posts.
Corner posts, gate posts, and any spot where the fence transitions in height or material deserve patience. Expect deeper footing and brace points that tie into soil you would rather not disturb. If the posts are set in concrete domes shaped like mushrooms, you can sometimes rock them out intact with a jack. If they are bell-shaped footings or include rebar, plan on cutting at grade and leaving concrete in place unless the next phase requires clean soil.
By the time you are 30 feet in, the job tells you how it wants to be handled. Maybe the screws are old but uniform, so your driver zips them out. Maybe the heads are stripped and you shift to saw cuts at each post. Maybe you find that the bottom rail is sunk below grade in spots where the dog dug, so you uncover as you go. The key is to stop and adjust rather than pushing a tactic that fights you.
Post extraction, the honest time sink
Ask any demolition company near me what slows them down, and they will say posts in concrete. People imagine a neat cylinder. What they often have is a flared base or an oblong blob shaped by sloppy digging, roots, and backfill. The widest section might be 10 to 14 inches across, and the depth can run two to three feet. That is too much to brute-force by hand for more than a few posts.
My go-to is a mechanical jack with a chain choker around the post or an anchor screwed into the wood. For metal posts, use a clamp-style puller or a welded eye if you trust your weld. Cut the surrounding soil with a digging bar, wet it if the ground is stubborn, and rock the post while jacking. If the post shears at ground level, do not panic. You can still jack the concrete by grabbing the stump or by drilling a hole and setting a pull bolt with epoxy. On tight sites with sensitive landscaping, I sometimes core-drill the concrete around the post to release the grip. It is slower but leaves the surroundings intact.
There is a judgment call on when to cut at grade and move on. If your replacement fence will shift off the old line, or if your client is selling the property and wants a clean yard, pull the concrete. If the next contractor is setting new posts on concrete piers, you can leave old footings and simply notch the layout. Clearly mark any left-in-place concrete on an as-built and in a note to the client. No one enjoys discovering concrete landmines during a future garden project.
Where hauling earns its keep
If demolition is the art of reduction, junk hauling is the logistics that keeps you out of trouble. The weight and volume spike quickly on fence jobs, especially when posts and soil ride along. Residential junk removal outfits that also handle basement cleanout and garage cleanout are often the best partner because they know how to load to capacity without breaking axles or mixing materials that raise your dump fees. On medium jobs, a 15 to 20 cubic yard truck does the trick. On larger removals, plan staggered hauls so debris does not pile and block your access.
Sorting matters. Clean, untreated wood can sometimes go to mulch and compost streams. Pressure-treated wood, older than the 2003 shift away from CCA in many regions, demands special handling, sometimes higher fees, and definitely separate loads. Metal from chain link, gates, and hardware has scrap value. Concrete can go to crushing facilities for aggregate reuse. An experienced crew reads the site and the local disposal matrix, then builds a plan that saves both time and money. That is the difference between a professional junk removal service and a pickup truck doing laps to the landfill.
If you are searching junk removal near me, look for providers who list estate cleanouts and office cleanout among services. That breadth signals a company that can manage access constraints, elevators, schedules, and building rules. Those same skills translate to tricky jobs like townhome fence removals with limited street parking or commercial properties where you must coordinate with tenants.
The neighbor factor and good fence diplomacy
Fence lines live on property boundaries, and people have feelings about them. I have seen neighbors cheer a removal because it means sunlight and a view. I have also seen them furious because they think their privacy is about to evaporate. Before demolition, communicate. If the fence is shared, review any agreements. If you plan to remove plants that have crept over, offer to tie them back and preserve what you can. If the line sits above a retaining wall, confirm who owns the wall, and do not remove any structure that stabilizes soil without a replacement plan.
Practical diplomacy pays. A simple door hanger with your schedule, a contact number, and an apology for the noise sets a respectful tone. If a neighbor works nights, plan your cutting windows accordingly. When you swing a sledge near a property line, a blanket or plywood shield protects windows and cars. Tiny gestures like sweeping your side and theirs when you are done cost minutes and buy goodwill that lasts for years.
When to call a demolition company
Most residential fence removals are squarely in the realm of skilled handwork. There are times when you need commercial demolition resources. Examples include long runs with concrete footings tied into grade beams, walls masquerading as fences, fences embedded in asphalt or structural slabs, steep slopes where mechanized access is the only safe route, and sites with known contamination or asbestos-containing materials in adjacent structures.
A demolition company brings permits, engineering support, and equipment like skid steers with concrete breakers, compact excavators, coring rigs, and vacuum trucks. They also bring safety procedures, spotters, and insurance coverage that protects you if a neighbor’s masonry cracks or a buried line fails. If you are searching demolition company near me for a fence along a busy street or near critical utilities, that instinct is sound. The cost rises, but so does control of risk.
On commercial properties, fence removal often sits inside a broader scope. Maybe the fence enclosed old boilers or mechanical yards, and you also need boiler removal, pad demo, and regrading. Maybe the yard has bed bug issues from infested furniture near a dumpster, and the customer needs a partner who coordinates with bed bug exterminators before any hauling. A team with both commercial junk removal and commercial demolition experience can stage the flows correctly: treat pests, then dismantle, then haul in sealed loads, with manifests that keep property managers and municipalities happy.
Salvage, reuse, and the part of the job people skip
Not every fence is destined for the dump. Cedar and redwood rails become garden beds, benches, or rustic accent walls. Chain link gates, cleaned and squared, make excellent compost bin fronts. Steel posts can be cut down for deck bracing or awning legs. I do not romanticize salvage; it takes time and storage. But a quick assessment often turns up 10 to 20 percent of material you can reuse, donate, or sell. If you are working for a client who cares about sustainability, these small moves matter.
The trick is to pull salvage early before the job site gets dusty and chaotic. Remove the cleanest panels first, unscrew rather than cut, stack with spacers, and keep everything out of mud. For vinyl, intact panels fetch surprising value on classifieds if you have the patience to list them. Be honest with buyers about UV wear and brittleness. A snapped tongue on one side turns a bargain into frustration.
The odd realities of gates
Gates are a small percentage of the fence and a big percentage of the headaches. Hinges seized with rust, latches that grew into posts, and gates bolted to masonry columns all require a steadier touch. If a gate hangs on a shared post with the neighbor’s fence, cut your side free cleanly and prop the neighbor’s gate before you move the post. If the gate hardware is welded to steel, bring a grinder, not a crescent wrench and dreams. I keep a bag of temporary gate hardware and a couple of cut-to-fit 2x4 braces in the truck. More than once, I have rebuilt a neighbor’s sagging gate on the spot just to keep the peace.
For automated gates, lock out the power and label the conductors before you touch anything. Take photos of wire terminations. Some systems store force settings and travel limits that reset if power drops too long. If the gate integrates with access control for an office cleanout nearby, coordinate with building management so no one gets trapped by a dead arm.
Soil, roots, and the green parts everyone forgets
Wood meets soil, soil meets roots, and roots go where they want. When you pull posts near trees, treat roots with respect. Clean cuts with a saw are better than pry-induced tears. Never leave a sharp concrete edge near a major root; it will abrade as the tree grows. If you disturb soil on a slope, reinstall erosion control fabric or straw wattles until new planting ties the ground. On level yards, fill post holes with compacted soil or gravel and cap with topsoil. I like to tamp in lifts, then water to settle, then top off. Leaving a hidden void is a twisted ankle waiting to happen.
Plants that use the fence as a trellis need a plan. Vines like wisteria and trumpet are heavy, and their load may have quietly supported a tired section. Detach methodically, tie back to temporary stakes, and warn the client that some vines will not survive the change. When someone cares deeply about their jasmine, your honesty early is better than an apology later.
Budget ranges and why two similar fences cost differently
People ask for numbers. Fair enough. A straightforward 100-foot wood fence removal with accessible staging and standard posts might price in the low four figures depending on region, disposal fees, and whether you pull concrete. Add chain link removal with top and bottom tension wire, and the labor drops but metal disposal weighs less on the dump bill because of scrap value. Vinyl sits in between. Concrete extraction, poor access, or a slope can add 20 to 50 percent. Night work, downtown staging, or HOA rules about timing add soft costs for permits and scheduling.
Contractors who also run cleanout companies near me tend to bid sharper because they control hauling in-house. They load efficiently, avoid standby time waiting for outside trucks, and monetize recyclables. That does not make every low bid a winner. Ask what is included. Are post holes filled and compacted? Is the site raked and magnet-swept for nails? Are dump fees included or billed at actuals? Is root protection in the scope? The cheapest number on paper can generate add-ons https://tntremovaldisposal.com/service-areas/ that erase any savings.
How junk removal ties into pest and specialty cases
Not every fence removal is a garden party. I have had jobs where the fence enclosed a storage area that became a magnet for mattresses, pallets, and the kind of items that lead to bed bug removal. In those cases, we coordinate with bed bug exterminators first. They treat the contents and the fence line, then we remove materials in sealed loads with disposal documentation. If you skip that step, you can transfer pests to your truck, your shop, or your next client’s driveway. The same caution applies near rodent-heavy zones. Bag and seal loose debris, and do not toss it loosely into an open truck.
Another specialty case is fence removal near mechanical yards where old tank pads or boiler equipment once sat. If the project scope includes boiler removal or adjacent slab demo, bring in a team that understands commercial junk removal protocols, including spill kits, permits, and manifests for regulated materials. Even if your fence is a small part of the site, your work exposes the area. You want a partner who can step seamlessly from fence to mechanical to hauling without waiting a week for the next trade.
Permits, neighbors, and the quiet world of rules
Permits for fence demolition are often not required, but check local codes. Some cities treat any structural removal as work that needs notification, especially in historic districts or near wetlands. If you plan to stage a dumpster on the street, that almost always requires a permit and a barricade plan. If you share a fence with a neighbor, review any shared maintenance clauses. In some jurisdictions, cost sharing is codified. Even if it is not, a friendly split saves the relationship.
HOAs love rules about fences. They love rules about work hours even more. If your crew shows up at 7 a.m. with a reciprocating saw on a Sunday, you will meet the board faster than you hoped. I build a schedule that starts noisy work after 9 a.m. and ends before dinner. When neighbors feel respected, they forgive the temporary mess.
A simple checklist you can actually use
- Confirm property lines, utilities, and irrigation. Call 811, then locate homeowner-installed lines with visual clues and test digs. Plan staging and hauling. Book residential junk removal or a roll-off. Sort materials on site to reduce fees. Set the sequence. Start at gates or corners, then work in a repeatable rhythm. Adapt tactics as the fence reveals itself. Extract posts with a plan. Use jacks, not just brute force. Decide early whether to pull concrete or cut at grade. Finish clean. Fill and compact holes, rake and magnet-sweep, walk the line with the client and address small punch list items.
Hiring smart, even if you are handy
Some homeowners are absolutely capable of a weekend fence removal. If you have strong backs on hand, a couple of the right tools, and tolerance for surprises, have at it. Where a professional crew shines is speed, safety, and disposals. A team that does fence demo on Tuesday, office cleanout on Wednesday, and a basement cleanout on Friday has systems. They show up with spare blades, backup batteries, and the right trailer height for easy loading. They know that if a gate post glued itself to a concrete wall, you need an angle grinder and a plan, not a prayer.
When you call around, ask the practical questions. Do they carry liability and workers’ comp? Will they separate treated wood from clean wood? Can they provide receipts from the transfer station? Do they have references for similar fence removals, not just general junk hauling? If a bidder talks only about speed and never mentions utilities, neighbors, or soil repair, keep looking.
What a clean finish looks like
A fence removal does not end when the last panel leaves the ground. I like a line that reads like nothing was there. Holes filled and tamped. Sprinkler heads intact. Plants tied back, with trellises reset or temporary supports in place. Nails and screws gone, not hiding in the grass waiting for tires or bare feet. If the neighbor’s dog likes to roam, a temporary barrier installed until the new fence goes up. If the client is moving on rather than replacing, a clear note about any concrete left in place, and photos for their records. Small details, big difference.
There is a certain satisfaction in a yard without the fence that has overstayed its welcome. Space opens. Light returns. The line feels honest again. Done right, demolition is not about destruction. It is about making room for what comes next. Whether that is a new cedar privacy line, a low garden fence, or nothing at all, the removal sets the tone. Bring care to it, and the rest of the project tends to follow.
And if you see Rocket streaking past while the old gate is down, yes, we always carry an extra slip lead for a quick capture and a biscuit for diplomacy. Some lessons you only need to learn once.
Business Name: TNT Removal & Disposal LLC
Address: 700 Ashland Ave, Suite C, Folcroft, PA 19032, United States
Phone: (484) 540-7330
Website: https://tntremovaldisposal.com/
Email: [email protected]
Hours:
Monday: 07:00 - 15:00
Tuesday: 07:00 - 15:00
Wednesday: 07:00 - 15:00
Thursday: 07:00 - 15:00
Friday: 07:00 - 15:00
Saturday: Closed
Sunday: Closed
Google Maps: https://www.google.com/maps/place/TNT+Removal+%26+Disposal+LLC/@36.883235,-140.5912076,3z/data=!4m7!3m6!1s0x89c6c309dc9e2cb5:0x95558d0afef0005c!8m2!3d39.8930487!4d-75.2790028!15sChZ0bnQgcmVtb3ZhbCAmIERpc3Bvc2FsWhgiFnRudCByZW1vdmFsICYgZGlzcG9zYWySARRqdW5rX3JlbW92YWxfc2VydmljZZoBJENoZERTVWhOTUc5blMwVkpRMEZuU1VRM01FeG1laTFSUlJBQuABAPoBBAhIEDg!16s%2Fg%2F1hf3gx157?entry=tts&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MTIwOS4wIPu8ASoASAFQAw%3D%3D&skid=34df03af-700a-4d07-aff5-b00bb574f0ed
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TNT Removal & Disposal LLC is a Folcroft, Pennsylvania junk removal and demolition company serving the Delaware Valley and the Greater Philadelphia area.
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC provides cleanouts and junk removal for homes, offices, estates, basements, garages, and commercial properties across the region.
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC offers commercial and residential demolition services with cleanup and debris removal so spaces are ready for the next phase of a project.
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC handles specialty removals including oil tank and boiler removal, bed bug service support, and other hard-to-dispose items based on project needs.
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC serves communities throughout Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Delaware including Philadelphia, Upper Darby, Media, Chester, Camden, Cherry Hill, Wilmington, and more.
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC can be reached at (484) 540-7330 and is located at 700 Ashland Ave, Suite C, Folcroft, PA 19032.
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC operates from Folcroft in Delaware County; view the location on Google Maps.
Popular Questions About TNT Removal & Disposal LLC
What services does TNT Removal & Disposal LLC offer?
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC offers cleanouts and junk removal, commercial and residential demolition, oil tank and boiler removal, and other specialty removal/disposal services depending on the project.
What areas does TNT Removal & Disposal LLC serve?
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC serves the Delaware Valley and Greater Philadelphia area, with service-area coverage that includes Philadelphia, Upper Darby, Media, Chester, Norristown, and nearby communities in NJ and DE.
Do you handle both residential and commercial junk removal?
Yes—TNT Removal & Disposal LLC provides junk removal and cleanout services for residential properties (like basements, garages, and estates) as well as commercial spaces (like offices and job sites).
Can TNT help with demolition and debris cleanup?
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC offers demolition services and can typically manage the teardown-to-cleanup workflow, including debris pickup and disposal, so the space is ready for what comes next.
Do you remove oil tanks and boilers?
Yes—TNT Removal & Disposal LLC offers oil tank and boiler removal. Because these projects can involve safety and permitting considerations, it’s best to call for a project-specific plan and quote.
How does pricing usually work for cleanouts, junk removal, or demolition?
Pricing often depends on factors like volume, weight, access (stairs, tight spaces), labor requirements, disposal fees, and whether demolition or specialty handling is involved. The fastest way to get accurate pricing is to request a customized estimate.
Do you recycle or donate usable items?
TNT Removal & Disposal LLC notes a focus on responsible disposal and may recycle or donate reusable items when possible, depending on material condition and local options.
What should I do to prepare for a cleanout or demolition visit?
If possible, identify “keep” items and set them aside, take quick photos of the space, and note any access constraints (parking, loading dock, narrow hallways). For demolition, share what must remain and any timeline requirements so the crew can plan safely.
How can I contact TNT Removal & Disposal LLC?
Call (484) 540-7330 or email [email protected].
Website: https://tntremovaldisposal.com/
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